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Bølgen & Moi Briskeby
Briskeby Cuisines: European, ContinentalAbout
It hardly knocks Bagatelle out of the running; but when this kitchen is firing on all cylinders, it can turn out cooking to match the best you'll find in Oslo. This is a showcase branch of a chain that's now scattered throughout the urban centers of Norway. Backed by the creative zest of two Norway-born chefs and entrepreneurs (Mr. Bølgen and Mr. Moi), the chain is known for being creative and stylish, and as a haven for the discreetly rich and the sometimes famous denizens of Norway. It's set in the Oslovian suburb of Briskeby, within a redesigned industrial building whose premises are lined with original paintings and photographs by avant-garde artists, most of them Norwegian. The fussiest, most prestigious, and most experimental venue here is the gourmet restaurant, one floor above street level, where only about seven tables accommodate diners for elaborate, drawn-out meals. Frankly, we prefer the street-level brasserie; it's a wee bit less self-consciously grand, and the food is good enough to satisfy all but the most jaded palates. Well-flavored examples include a pork marinated in tamarind with lemongrass glacé; halibut with pickled lemon, or fresh lobster gratinée with a shellfish reduction.
