It begins with a ruin and ends with a ritzy entertainment complex: Oranienburger Straße stretches for just over a mile between the makeshift Tacheles cultural centre near Friedrichstraße and the fashionable Hackesche Höfe on Rosenthaler Straße. Between the two, almost every building is home to a bar, café, restaurant or club. And if you look skywards, you will see the beautiful golden dome of the New Synagogue and the imposing, ever-present TV Tower glaring down at you. The adjacent streets and courtyards are full of galleries and boutiques.