With a menu stretching the gamut of the globe -- from fajitas and burritos to Romanian pork dishes -- you'll be excused from initial confusion. Added to the dilemma of trying to figure out what inspired the kitchen's bold eclecticism is the setting -- an underground cellar of beautiful vaulted brickwork, decorated with lanterns, bits of pottery, and lengths of rope, and each table outfitted with a red buzzer to alert your waiter. Accept the paradox and move on to the house specialties like the popular Outlaw's Steak (friptura haiduceasca), Banat-style escalopes of pork (served with egg and a tangy "brown" sauce); paprikash stew, made with chicken, pork and bacon; or the Kronstadt ragout. If you're lucky (and use your buzzer judiciously), you'll be offered free shots of Romanian plum moonshine (palinca).