hire a tour to the geysers
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If you're going to rent a car, then, by all means, hire a tour to the geysers. The road's extremely difficult, confusing, poorly signaled, and you'll have virtually no communication with the world at all unless you carry a satellite phone, and even then the signal's sketchy. Every year there's a few lethal accidents on that road, plus a myriad of frustrating ones, always involving visitors in rented or owned vehicles. Do yourself a favor, and book an excursion.
