From the street (there's no sign), Las Campañas looks like a storehouse for cured hams and wine bottles. Patrons flock to the long, stand-up bar for chorizo pinioned between two pieces of bread. Sausages are usually eaten with beer or red wine. The place opened in 1952, and nothing has changed since. A tape recorder plays nostalgic favorites, from Edith Piaf to the Andrews Sisters.