Nicholini's

Conrad Hong Kong Cuisines: Italian

About

Most of Hong Kong's Italian restaurants seem to fall into one of two categories -- highbrow and sophisticated, or rustic and trattoria-like. This one is neither and yet both, combining elegance and lightheartedness in keeping with the Conrad Hotel's overall playful style. Dress is casual to smart casual (though no jeans or tennis shoes are allowed), and the dining room bathes patrons in soothing colors of gold. If you're a fan of Murano glass, be sure to check out the collection spread throughout the restaurant. The cuisine here is northern Italian, combined with inventiveness -- some claim it's the best Italian restaurant in Hong Kong. Entrees range from roasted sea bass with herbs to veal shank osso buco in a vegetable orange-flavored sauce served with saffron risotto. Pasta -- like the favorite angel-hair pasta with Maine lobster, fresh tomato, and basil -- is available as either a side dish or a main course. For dessert, the Chef's Special Dessert Sampler solves the dilemma for those who want it all. The extensive wine list features mainly Italian selections, and the service is beyond reproach. Too bad this restaurant doesn't have a view.

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