There is no finer dining in Locarno than that found here, not even in the restaurants of the most deluxe hotels. The dining room, with austere white walls and straight-back chairs, has a simplicity that contrasts with the colorful creations of Gérard Perriard. The menu is based on fresh ingredients from the market. Seasonal specialties -- and delightful ones at that -- include sea bass with fennel, foie gras of duck with salad, lobster salad in mango sauce, and stuffed lamb in asparagus sauce. For an unusual first course, ask for a cold consommé of quail eggs garnished with caviar.