One of the most charming dining rooms in Madrid, Platerías Comedor has richly brocaded walls evocative of 19th-century Spain. Busy socializing may take place on the plaza outside, but this serene oasis makes few concessions to the new generation in its food, decor, or formally attired waiters. Specialties include beans with clams, stuffed partridge with cabbage and sausage, duck liver with white grapes, tripe a la Madrid, veal stew with snails and mushrooms, and guinea hen with figs and plums. Follow up any of these with the passion-fruit sorbet. Many restaurants have sprouted up in recent years that serve better food, but Platerías Comedor continues to thrive as a culinary tradition -- its old-fashioned atmosphere is hard to come by.
