Restaurant Patois

6078 Laurel St. Cuisines: French

About

A very sweet setting, in an old house on an otherwise residential street, and equally sweet, if not culinarily thrilling, food make this a fine choice for a low-key but pleasurable uptown meal. For brunch, it's delightful. Braised pork belly comes as toad in the hole, while tuna carpaccio is topped with ginger and orange-blossom vinaigrette. The grilled hanger steak, with a rich red-wine bone marrow reduction, is really quite excellent, while the roasted duck breast with a bacon-potato-apple hash is precisely done. Desserts show an interest of working with twists on standard local offerings; sample one for sure.

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