Sam-Lor Thai ("The Tricycle")

17, rue de Monthoux Cuisines: Asian, Thai

About

Unpretentious, and something of an insiders' secret, hip, cost-conscious Genevois have been coming here for years. It was the first Thai restaurant in the bustling Paquis district, sprawling unexpectedly within a pair of battered side-by-side buildings separated by a corridor that's illuminated with a greenhouse-style skylight. Inside, there's a medley of Thai and Indonesian art objects that might be appropriate in a temple, including representations of Buddha, and a pair of teakwood opium beds that were each artfully transformed into platforms for dining tables. Prices here are reasonable by anyone's standards, and in high-priced Geneva, very welcome. Menu items include at least four kinds of both chicken and pork (including versions with either red or green curry, with ginger, or with white pepper and garlic); monkfish with tamarind sauce; noodles sautéed with tofu and garlic; duckmeat with red curry and coconut; and vermicelli with shrimp, brought to table in an iron pot that's continually heated with a burning candle.

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