You may have noticed that between 12:30 and 2:30pm, the streets of La Paz become mighty quiet. That's probably because everyone and his mother is eating lunch here at Surucachi. The food is pure Bolivian -- milanesas (fried chicken or veal cutlets), pejerrey (kingfish from Lake Titicaca), and picante mixto (tongue, chicken, and chopped meat all in a spicy chile sauce). The almuerzo del día (lunch special), which includes a salad, soup, a main course, and dessert, is only Bs20 ($2.50/£1.25). Add a colonial building with fancy gold-leaf moldings and huge picture windows to the mix, and you've got yourself the most popular lunch spot in town.