I fell in love with this place the minute I descended underground. This hugely popular dark den pulses most nights of the week and you have to get in early (like 6pm) to get a spot. People line up all the way back up the stairs to the street, but don't let their hungry looks make you rush through the delicious and incredibly well-priced menu. Choose a selection of skewers (chargrilled yakitori and deep-fried, breaded kushiage) or the delicious tofu salad. If you can't get a spot here, Tanuki's Sake & Sushi Bar is next door at ground level and is also well worth trying.
