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The Valley of Petaloudes and Convent of Christou stou Dhassous
PetaloudesAbout
Another name for this oasis of plum, pear, fig, and pomegranate trees is Psychopiani (Soul Softs). The butterflies, actually tiger moths (Panaxia quadripunctaria poda), look like black-and-white-striped arrowheads until they fly up to reveal their bright red underwings. They have been coming here for at least 300 years because of the freshwater spring, flowering trees, dense foliage, and cool shade; they're usually most numerous in early mornings or evenings in June. Donkey or mule rides from Parikia to the site along a back road cost about 12€ ($16). You can take the Pounda and Aliki bus, which drops you off at the turnoff to the nunnery; you'll have to walk the remaining 2.5km (1 1/2 miles) in to Petaloudes. Be sure to scowl at any visitors who clap and shout to alarm the butterflies and make them fly, often causing the fragile insects to collapse. A small snack bar serves refreshments; men can wait here, while women visit the nearby Convent of Christou stou Dhassous, which does not welcome male visitors. (Cooling their heels in the courtyard, the men can console themselves by thinking of visiting Mount Athos, which is forbidden to female visitors.)
