Agut

Barri Gòtic Cuisines: European, Spanish

About

In a historic building in the Barri Gòtic, 3 blocks from the harborfront, Agut epitomizes the bohemian atmosphere surrounding this gritty area. For three-quarters of a century, this has been a family-run business, with María Agut García the current reigning empress. (Don't confuse Agut with the more famous Agut d'Avignon nearby.) The aura evokes the 1940s and 1950s, and the inventive array of restaurant dishes is served at moderate prices. Begin with mil hojas de botifarra amb zets (layers of pastry filled with Catalan sausage and mushrooms) or the terrine de albergines amb fortmage de cabra (terrine of eggplant with goat cheese gratinée). One of my favorite dishes is soufle de rape amb gambes (soufflé of monkfish with shrimp). If you are ravenous, attempt the chuletón de buey (loin of ox) for two, which comes thick and juicy and accompanied by a mixture of fresh vegetables. For dessert, if you order sortido, you'll get a combination plate with an assortment of the small homemade cakes of the house.

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