Alexandre (Michael Kayser)

Rte. de l'Aéroport de Garons Cuisines: French

About

The most charming restaurant around is on the outskirts of Nîmes, 8km (5 miles) south of the center. Michel Kayser oversees this elegant yet rustic domain, and adheres to classic tradition, with subtle improvements. His wife, Monique, assists him in the ultramodern dining room outfitted in tones of soft reds and ochers, with gilded highlights. Menu items are designed to amuse as well as delight the palate: île flottante, a playful update of old-fashioned floating island, with truffles and velouté of cèpe mushrooms; roasted pigeon stuffed with vegetable purée and foie gras; tartare of oysters and shellfish with cardamom seeds; brandade de Nîmes, a regional version of brandade of codfish, elevated here to gourmet standards; and filet of bull from the Camargue in red-wine sauce with Camarguais herbs. Especially appealing is the selection of goat cheeses from the region and worthy cheeses from other parts of France. The dessert trolley is incredibly hard to resist.

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