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Arcadia
In the lane between 63 Jaffa Rd. and 10 Agrippas St., 2 blocks west of King George St Cuisines: European, FrenchAbout
Acknowledged as the finest restaurant in Jerusalem, this little hideaway (reached through an offbeat little 19th-c. pedestrian lane) has understated, minimalist decor, a dining garden, and top reviews from Israeli and foreign food writers. Chef Ezra Kedem doesn't perform flashy inventive tricks with food; instead, quality, skill, and natural grace mark his dishes. The content of the French/Mediterranean menu constantly changes and is done with a light touch that matches the decor. Among the appetizers, you may find a dish of oven-roasted shrimp with a citrus sauce and basil flowers; a saffron-scented seafood soup; or herbed lamb ravioli on beet-root salad. For main courses, there's almost always a slow-cooked, rustic dish of baby lamb prepared in different ways; prime rib for two; something different and interesting, such as pan-sautéed duck livers on a bed of warm lentil salad; and an array of simple, carefully prepared fresh fish and seafood (the sea bass in wild sage butter is wonderful). The wine list is especially good, drawing on Israeli boutique wineries, as well as imports. Fixed-price two-course luncheons begin at NIS 90 ($23/£11), and there is a fixed-price, two-course dinner for NIS 160 ($40/£20) that includes service (but not Arcadia's delicious house bread). With either of these you'll be tempted to add a very worthwhile wine, a dessert, or an upgrade on a first or second course. In my experience, the serving staff has not been strong in explaining details of menu choices, and pigeons can make dining under the trees in the garden fraught with danger. But with its blend of quality and gentle magic, Arcadia is unequaled, especially at night.
