Cavalli

at bd. de Maisonneuve Cuisines: Italian

About

With a formula more common in the restaurants over on boulevard St-Laurent than here in the middle of the business district, the owners filled a glamorous space with striking young women in snug black dresses and hunky young men with requisite 4-day beards. It's like joining the after-party of a Hollywood premiere with 300 of the beautiful people. Being seen is top priority, but the food is noteworthy, too. Most dishes stick to four or five main ingredients, the better to appreciate the impeccably fresh components. Tempting as it is to simply make a meal of antipasti, that would mean ignoring such eminently worthwhile main events as the pine nutcrusted filet mignon or rack of lamb with oregano crust and black olive jus. Lighter appetites have several pastas to choose among. Prices are high, assuring a somewhat more prosperous crowd than usually found at similar emporia. The glowing pink bar is a heavy scene later in the evening; Thursday is the big night.
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