Denise Kingdom

North Beach, a block inland across from the entrance to Sheraton Herod's Complex Cuisines: Seafood

About

This very informal, busy restaurant is run by a local Eilat fish farm specializing in bream (dorade), a succulent white-meat sea fish, but it also serves sea bass and a few nonfarm choices. Kids will like the fish tanks, which they can visit between courses, as well as the chance to climb on the fish sculptures in the gardens beside the dining terrace. There are carefully deboned filets and nonfish plates on the children's menu. Adults will enjoy the ultrafresh whole fish or combo platters, which you can order steamed, poached, smoked, grilled, baked, or pan-fried. I especially like a dish of delicate fresh denise stuffed with lemon, chili, and spices. Main courses come with a baked potato and are preceded by a meze of Middle Eastern salads served with delicious fresh rolls, herbed butter, and olive tapenade -- so although there's a choice of fish-centered appetizers, you probably won't want them. The pies, cakes, and cheesecakes are hefty in size and come with ice cream, another plus for kids.

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