Here's a breath of unpretentious fresh air in a pricey neighborhood: an informal wine tavern open for lunch only. Both dining rooms are usually packed and full of festive diners, just as they've been since 1943. The wine list includes affordable choices from around Italy, to go perfectly with the platters of straightforward cuisine. It's nothing fancy, just hearty Italian home cooking like bean soup, gnocchi, Roman tripe, and roasted codfish with garlic and potatoes.
