This bright, friendly Italian/Californian bistro specializes in pasta: the butternut squash-stuffed ravioli is a typically imaginative, surprisingly decadent option. Appetizers include a delightful goat cheese salad and a delicious fried calamari, and those in search of a more substantial main course can choose from the steak-frites and other rotating meat and seafood dishes. Wines are predominantly Californian. The friendly, unflappable waiters deftly wade their way through the throngs at the bar.