At a location opposite the Dom, culinary whiz Peter Schmalen has brought some excitement to bored taste buds in the city. First, the setting is romantic -- in the Palais Walderdorff complex that dates from the 1800s. In summer, try for a table in the courtyard. One specialty is plain old spaghetti, given a sublime twist with fresh truffles. A delectable pikeperch steams under a golden-brown potato crust. Finish off with the town's best crème brûlée. Schmalen proudly boasts one of the town's finest wine lists, with some marvelous Mosel vintages.
