Aix Cuisine du Terroir

near rue St-Antoine Cuisines: French

About

Replacing the less-than-mediocre resto once lodged beneath the Place d'Armes Hôtel, this new addition received immediate critical plaudits and makes Vieux-Montréal dining even more attractive. Terroir refers to "soil" and a gastronomical allegiance to products of the immediate region, including wild boar from the Cantons de l'Est and caviar from New Brunswick. Contemplate the possibilities with a more generous martini than the (highly taxed) Canadian norm; an amuse of bits of grilled shrimp over seaweed drizzled with sesame oil helps. Among the appetizers might be house-smoked salmon with a buckwheat crepe and salmon roe. After that, perhaps pan-roasted red snapper with fiddleheads perked with the crunch of sea salt. Restful earth tones and soft lighting keep the mood subdued, especially in the evening. The restaurant is also open for breakfast daily and for lunch on the weekdays. Lighter appetites might wish to head upstairs to the even-newer Suite 701 bar, with its small plates card of oysters, cheeses, and updated mac-'n'-cheese.

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