Chez l'Epicier

At rue St-Claude Cuisines: French

About

This crisp little eatery opposite the Marché Bonsecours does double-duty: It's both a high-end restaurant and a gourmet delicatessen with an abundance of tempting prepared foods, so remember it when you are planning a picnic down the hill in the Vieux-Port. When it started up, food here was often little more than workman-like, but over time, the kitchen took a welcome turn to more fashionable, extravagant preparations. Success nurtured ambition, and the chef-proprietor opened the Version Laurent Godbout restaurant a few doors away. If anything, that distraction energized this kitchen. While lunches are certainly well done, the dinner hour has seen creative flourishes equaled in only in a few other local establishments. Asian ingredients and techniques are part of the mix, as are witty surprises: Witness a humble turnip appetizer that the waiter injected with tomato confit . . . using a syringe!
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