Thanasis (Myrobolos Smyrnis)

Just inside Modiano Market Cuisines: European, Greek

About

For 47 years, Thessalonians have been beating a path to this small taverna that serves zesty home-style cooking -- including stuffed squid and mussels (both fried or steamed). In fact, the first customer through the door in the new millennium was Greek Prime Minister Simitis. The sign over the door reads H MYPOBOLOS SMYRNH (Miraculous Smyrna), but everyone knows it equally well by the name of its marvelously genial owner, Thanasis. This place is always packed, with a seemingly endless number of workers, businesspeople, artists, prostitutes, actors, and other characters from the high and low walks of Thessaloniki. The potato salad, cheese croquettes, spicy peppers with cheese, squid stuffed with cheese and rice, grilled fish and meats, and excellent bakaliaro (batter-fried cod) are all wonderful, as is the mood in this tiny restaurant with photos and old prints on the walls. The music is usually very loud, but if I had to eat every meal at one place in Thessaloniki, this would be it.

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